In short
- Short, relaxed sessions with a treat at the end work better than one long effort.
- Choose tools by coat type: a soft brush or mitt for short coats, a slicker brush and comb for longer or thicker ones.
- Brush right down to the skin in sections, hold the fur near the skin when working through a tangle, and never cut mats with scissors.
- Look at paws, nails and ears in general terms and leave anything you are unsure about to a vet or a groomer.
- If your animal stiffens, growls or tries to leave, stop; that is information, not a thing to push through.
Grooming is as much about trust as it is about a tidy coat. A few quiet minutes with a brush gets loose hair off the furniture, lets you notice changes in the skin and fur, and teaches your animal that being handled is calm and pleasant. This piece is about a gentle routine at home, in general terms, for dogs and for cats. Coats, breeds and temperaments differ a great deal, so treat it as a starting point.
Set up a small, calm routine
Choose a place with good light and a non-slip surface, with a towel and a few small treats within reach. Many dogs and cats are most relaxed after exercise or a meal, so pick a quiet moment rather than a rushed one. A small dog on a table or counter can fall, so keep both hands on the animal and never turn your back; the floor is usually safer.
Keep sessions short. A few minutes is a good start, and it is better to stop while your animal is still comfortable than to carry on until they are fed up. Several short sessions in a week usually work better than one long one. Always end on something pleasant, such as a treat or a bit of play. Treats are part of the day's food, so ask your vet if you are unsure how much is right.
Brushes and combs by coat type
Coats vary even within a breed, and many animals are mixes, so use this table as a rough guide and ask a groomer what suits yours.
| Coat | Tools often used | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Short and smooth | A soft bristle brush or a grooming mitt | Removes loose hair and dust; light strokes in the direction the hair grows |
| Thick or double coat | A slicker brush and a wide-toothed comb | Brush in sections down to the skin, especially when the coat is shedding |
| Long and silky | A slicker or pin brush and a comb | Tangles often form behind the ears, under the legs and near the tail; work gently |
| Curly or woolly | A slicker brush and a comb | Mats can form quickly, so comb through to the skin regularly; many owners use a groomer for clipping |
| Wiry or rough | A firmer brush or comb | Ask a groomer, since some wiry coats need special handling |
Whatever the tool, brush in sections and check that the brush reaches the skin and not just the top layer. Hold the fur near the skin with one hand when working through a tangle, so that the brush does not pull on the skin. Use light pressure, and if a spot hurts or is tangled, stop pulling and work from the ends up.
Mats are tight knots of fur. Do not cut them out with scissors, because the skin is often closer than it looks. Tools with sharp teeth or blades, such as dematting rakes, need care and are not for tight mats close to the skin. A mat that will not loosen with gentle combing is a job for a groomer. Brush before a bath, because water makes mats tighter.
Anything that rubs can matt fur, so look under collars and harnesses and in the armpits. Our guide to choosing a dog harness, collar and leash explains how to check fit, and the guide to dressing a dog for cold and wet weather covers rubbing under clothes.
Patience, treats and handling
Start by letting your animal sniff the brush. Touch the brush to the coat without brushing, give a treat, and build up slowly. On the first days, one or two strokes may be enough. Handle the paws, ears and mouth briefly in everyday moments as well, with a treat afterward, so that care later on feels familiar.
Watch the body language. Stiffening, pulling away, growling or snapping all say "that is enough". Stop, give your animal space, and try again another day with a shorter session. A frightened animal can bite, so protect yourself, and ask a trainer or a vet for help if handling is a regular problem. Never scold; it makes the next session harder.
Paws, nails and ears in general terms
Paws. After walks, look at the pads and between the toes for grit, burrs and small cuts, and wipe away mud. If fur between the toes is long, ask a groomer to show you how to deal with it.
Nails. Long nails can click on the floor and make walking less comfortable. Nails have a blood supply inside called the quick, which can be hard to see on dark nails, and cutting too short hurts. Ask a vet or groomer to show you the first time, or leave nails to them.
Ears. Only look at the outside and wipe the outer flap with a soft dry cloth. Do not push anything into the ear canal. If an ear looks red, smells, or seems to bother your animal, see a vet rather than cleaning it yourself.
Teeth, eyes and skin are best left to your vet, and so is anything that worries you. Mention any lumps, sore patches or sudden changes in the coat to a vet.
When to ask a groomer or a vet
A groomer is the right person for tight mats, clipping, coats with special needs and animals that are very nervous about being handled. Many are glad to show you tools and techniques. A vet is the right person for skin that looks sore or has bald patches, constant scratching, ear or paw problems, signs of pain when touched, or a sudden change in behavior during handling.
Here is a simple routine you can adapt:
- Choose a calm time and a non-slip place, with treats ready.
- Let your animal sniff the tools, then brush gently in sections.
- Look at the paws, ears and skin as you go.
- Stop when your animal has had enough and give a treat.
- Clear the hair from the brush and wash the tools now and then.
For brushes, combs and other tools, see Grooming & Care, or look at everything in Care, Beds & Travel.